How To choose The Ordinary Vitamin C Serum

If you missed the post on the types of vitamin C serums carried by The Ordinary, then, just go through it and come back to this.

Paula's Choice and The Ordinary seem to have a lot in common when it comes to formulations and I love that! Let's start with the highest form which is the L-ascorbic acid. This is found in the The Ordinary Vitamin C silicone and vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2%.


 Much like our Vitamin C Suspension 23% + HA Spheres 2% formula, this product also offers a suspension but in light silicones for a smooth, non-gritty skin finish. Despite the very light forms of silicones used, silicones do impair dermal exposure to Vitamin C slightly but the additional (30%) concentration of Vitamin C helps compensate for this slight inefficiency. A very strong tingling but non-irritating sensation is expected during the first 1-2 weeks of use until the skin's tolerance to such high exposure is elevated. If desired, this formula can be diluted in a cream base per application to allow the skin to build tolerance over time.

Next is the Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12% (Water-based serum, dropper format)

Ascorbyl Glucoside is a water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C. It is much more stable in water but it is less potent than direct L-Ascorbic Acid. Being more compatible with water allows for a very pleasant serum texture. It is considered a gold standard of Vitamin C derivatives due to its high stability and comfortable use, but it's impossible to achieve extremely high L-Ascorbic Acid potency with this solution. Aside from the general benefits of pure Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Glucoside has been shown to offer specific skin brightening benefits.

If you still want a tolerable version, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10%

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10% (Water-based cream, tube format) Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is a water-soluble derivative of Vitamin C. It is more stable in water but it is less potent than direct L-Ascorbic Acid. It is compatible with water but higher concentrations cannot be offered in a low-viscosity serum format and often require emulsification to form a lotion or a cream. This formula is a light cream that offers 10% pure MAP (very high solubilized concentration). Aside from the general benefits of pure Vitamin C, MAP has been shown to offer specific skin brightening benefits, more so than other derivatives of Vitamin C. (Note: some brands offer "powder" formulations that offer up to 15% MAP. Such powders would offer less direct availability of MAP as compared to an emulsion such as this formula which has solubilized the complete 10% concentration of MAP. It is extremely difficult to solubilize higher concentrations of MAP in non-powder formulations.)

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% in Vitamin F (Water-free, silicone-free serum, dropper format) Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is an oil-soluble derivative of Vitamin C that can be used in higher concentrations without drawbacks. It is one of the most stable derivatives of Vitamin C but, being a derivative, its potency will not be directly comparable to pure L-Ascorbic Acid. It is provided in this oil-format formula in combination with Vitamin F, also known as essential fatty acids. Aside from the general benefits of pure Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmiate has been shown to offer specific skin brightening benefits.

Now to one of the vitamin C serums I've seen in action.

Ascorbic Acid 8% + Alpha Arbutin 2%

If I'm going to delve into any serum, it would be this and here's why.

This formula combines two of the most powerful brightening agents in skincare: pure Vitamin C and Alpha Arbutin, both solubilized in a completely water-free formula for ideal stability. Vitamin C is an effective antioxidant that brightens the skin tone and reduces signs of aging. Alpha Arbutin is a highly-purified biosynthetic active ingredient that reduces the look of dark spots and uneven skin tone.

Notes: Vitamin C and Alpha Arbutin are less stable in formulations that contain water and use of them combined in formulations containing water is highly discouraged. This formulation is a water-free, stable solution, and may feel slightly "oily" for a few seconds after application, despite the fact that it is completely free of oil.

Last is the exceptionally-stable solution of 15% Ethylated Ascorbic Acid. This water-free formula offers a direct-acting approach to achieving a radiant, healthy-looking skin tone. Unlike other Vitamin C derivatives, this ethylated form acts directly like Vitamin C, is closer in molecular weight to actual Vitamin C which allows for faster visible results, and offers a much better stability profile than any known direct-acting form of Vitamin C.
Notes: Since this formulation is a water-free solution, it may feel slightly "oily" for a few seconds after application, despite the absence of all oils.

Now, who wouldn't want to have these benefits? The last is the ELAN 2. This is on the high level of skin care and it's sold on the Hylamide site (another company of Deciem). This is a high end product and there's a version 2 now.

This highly concentrated network complex combines a 30% concentration of highly-stable Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) in an antioxidant network of Superoxide Dismutase, Selenium and Zinc to support a strong fight against oxidation while enhancing barrier function, balancing visible discolouration, reviving skin tone, and supporting collagen production and repair mechanisms. While the initial tone-enhancing benefits of ELAN will be noticeable from the third day of once-daily use, benefits at-large are continuing and cumulative.

On the whole, you can work your way up and find what suits YOU.

So far, I've tried only the vitamin C 23% suspension and I'll be trying the Ascorbic acid with alpha arbutin and the MAP. 

Which one have you tried? 

Ps: visit www.shop.ghanaianemprezz.com if you want any of these serums or call 0541458372.


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